Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Bittersweet

Bittersweet. The only word that I can think of to describe the ending of my time in Cape Town, South Africa.

Without a doubt, this past semester has been one of the most amazing and rewarding experiences of my entire life. As most of my friends and family know, I attended the University of Cape Town, where I was studying Xhosa (a South
African Bantu language), History of Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa, Philosophy of Psychology of the Mind, and Classical Political Philosophy. For the first 4.5 months I lived in a house in Rhondebosch (a suburb of Cape Town) with 12 other American students from across the country. For my remaining month, I lived in Newlands (another Cape Town suburb) with some South African friends of mine!

My blog would be a thousand pages if I were to try to narrate the events of my entire
semester, but I figured that I would hit the highlights. Hopefully by the end of reading this, all of you guys will understand how I came to fall in love with the place I was living and the people that I met along the way.

Concert in Kirstenbosch Gardens
I went with several of my friends to see Zebra & Giraffe, a rock band based in South Africa, play in Kirstenbosch Gardens. Kirstenbosch is an unbelievably beautiful botanical garden located right by Table Mountain. The concert in itself was spectacular, but the gorgeous backdrop made it even better. I think it should also be mentioned that my friends and I were the ones who started the moshing up near the stage, only to be joined by a couple hundred more fans. One word to describe the experience. EPIC.

Pony-Trekking in Lesotho

After the majority of Americans had already made their return back to the states, a couple of us who remained opted for one last Sub-Saharan adventure. Where to??? "The Magical Kingdom of Lesotho." For those of you who don't know, Lesotho is the small enclaved country that is completely located within South Africa. The tourism industry within the country is pretty small, and basically consists of one place to stay: Malealea Lodge. The lodge is located in a Basotho village, so the majority of people living in the village are locals rather than tourists. For dinner the first night, we ate a traditional Basotho meal in the hut of a local family, and attempted to get a full night's rest in our huts. In the morning, we awoke early to begin our three full day pony-trek through the mountains of Lesotho. We basically rode our horses up and down mountains for hours in the scalding sun, and then spent the nights in various Basotho villages. We cooked our own food... i.e. some pretty err.... interesting dishes. The remainder of our time each night was spent playing with the awesome village children. Due to my lack of Sesotho vocabulary, and the fact that they did not speak ANY English, our communication was purely done through body language. We took some pretty spectacular photos and had fun dancing around and imitating our favorite animals. I even taught them my "Whatchoo talkin' 'bout Willis" face (something I believe every child should know). I'm including my favorite photo of the trip: three Basotho children doing "hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil." Overall, the best part of our excursion was the fact that we were able to truly be a part of the culture of Lesotho without feeling like tourists. Our experience was irreplaceable, and without a doubt one of the highlights of my semester.

My homestay in Ocean View: a Couloured community
While in Cape Town, I was given the opportunity to go on a weekend stay to Ocean View, a Coloured township the houses a large portion of the individuals evicted from "white only" areas during Apartheid. This was an insightful weekend, because I was able to gain much information regarding the present sentiments between the Blacks, Whites, and Coloureds within South Africa. (I know Coloured seems like an innapropriate term, but in South Africa it is the preferred term to describe people who have Sub-Saharan ancestry as well as European, Indian, Indonesian etc.) During the homestay, I lived with a delightful family who took me out to sing karaoke, cooked some interesting food common to the culture, and took me in as one of their own kids. I remain close to them, and went back for another visit just for fun. This experience was fun AND eduational... (definitely a pleaser for the parents!) Here is a pic of myself, Raina, (another American student) and my host parents being goofy!

Working at Brooklyn Chest TB hospital
During the semester I had the opportunity to do a bit of volunteering. Every week I volunteered at Brooklyn Chest, a Tuberculosis hospital. I did my time in the childrens ward, and had an extremely rewarding experience. Because of the high levels of poverty within South Africa, and the way the people are dispersed throughout the area, many of these children never have visitors. Their parents often live too far away or lack the money to make visits. Many of these parents also suffer from TB or from other diseases like HIV/AIDs. As a volunteer, my job was to help the nurses with odd jobs as needed, to play with the kids, and to hold the babies. . I found that this volunteer opportunity allowed me to help out by doing something I already enjoy doing: making people smile. I also spent some time volunteering with the SHAWCO health clinics. These mobile clinics operate in Gugulethu, Khayelitsha, and a couple other townships around the Cape Town Area. While in the clinics, I worked alongside a Physician and medical students to perform physical examinations, diagnosis, and counseling. This experience was extremely disheartening. It is very upsetting how little access to health care that the people living in the townships have. They also lack education regarding their sexual/reproductive health, and have issues with malnutrition and unclean conditions that make it very difficult to maintain healthy lifestyles. I believe this experience has only made it more clear to me that my future will be in a health-related humanitarian field.

Learning Xhosa
Learning Xhosa was one of the best decisions that I made when coming to South Africa. The country itself has 11 official languages, with a large portions speaking Xhosa and Zulu (both Bantu clicking languages.) Knowing some Xhosa was extremely beneficial during my stay. Because of the remnants of Apartheid, which are still obvious in everyday life, blacks in South Africa do not necessarily have great opinion of whites in general, regardless of whether they are South African whites or whites from other countries. Knowing some Xhosa allowed me to speak with locals, and let them know that I was making an effort to learn parts of their culture. In addition, Xhosa is a very vibrant and interesting language, making it fun to learn! There are clicks on the c's the q's and the x's. The following is a Xhosa tongue twister. Give it a go!
Ugqirha uligqabhuzile iqhakuva elisemqolo kaqondie qhumfu.

Bungi Jumping off of Bloukrans Bridge
I think that most parents would be horrified to find out that there child was planning to jump of of a 715 meter bridge, even if they were going to be attached to a bungi cord. This is precisely why I told my father about my intentions AFTER I had already thrown myself off of the highest bungi jump in the world... TWICE... one of those times I even went backwards. That puts my bungi jumping total to three... I'm an Adrenalin Junkie =) Bloukrans is located on the Garden Route, a trip I made with a couple friends from UNC Chapel Hill.

Manchester United vs. Kaizer Chiefs
I think this is self explanatory! Everyone wants to see Manchester United play... and to have them play a South African team was awesome! It has me all pumped for the 2010 World Cup in South Africa!

White Water Rafting down the Zambezi
The Zambezi is the river that divides Zambia and Zimbabwe. It is well-known for having class 5 rapids which are supposed to be REALLY difficult. We went on full day rafting and had an absolutely amazing time. This incudes one scary experience when I was knocked out of the raft and trapped underneath it. Everyone in our boat was knocked out several times (with the exception of our river guide, Simba, who didn't appear to budge, even with the boat flipped). Everyone needs to add rafting down the Zambezi to their to-do list within Africa

Playing with Lions in Zimbabwe
Despite the fact that the Zimbabwean economy is going through tremendous struggles, it was still on my list of places that I really wanted to visit during the semester. During my spring break trip to Botswana and Zambia, I was able to make a small day trip to the Zimbabwean market, as well as to a Lion Encounters Center. We were able to pet, walk around with, and take photos of lions for about an hour and a half. It was interesting to hear about the 3 stage process that they use to rehabilitate these lions in an attempt to increase the diminishing lion population.(There are only about 20,000 lions remaining from what used to be 250,000!.) Not many people have gotten the opportunity to play with huge lions. It was an amazing experience.

My amazing friends
Without a doubt, the people that I encountered during my time abroad played a huge role in making my semester so wonderful. I think they would be upset if I didn't mention them!
James-- the best friend anyone could ever have... It's difficult living away from home and feeling like you don't have anyone to talk to. James made it so I ALWAYS had someone. He is one of the most talented and amazing people I have ever met, and saved my butt on multiple occasions! I love him.
Lloyd-- it is IMPOSSIBLE to be unhappy when you have someone around who is always smiling. Lloyd always brightened my day... And let's not forget that for my last month in Cape Town, he gave me a bed to sleep in!
Craig-- nothing is more exciting then living with a talented South African film student. Craig carted me around to various Film Festivals, award ceremonies and concerts! Always the life of the party and never a boring moment! Also, he woke me up every morning with tea and a piece of toast. I could get used to that!
Peter-- another talented film student! Also, one of the funniest people I have ever met! We share a mutual love for Arrested Development.
Simon-- He made me realize that living with a chef has MULTIPLE perks. I ate better in Newlands than I have ever eaten before.
Simon Thompson-- one of the most genuine people I have ever met. Can't imagine life without him!
Don Armand-- My wonderful teddy bear! If you can imagine a 6 foot something tall "solid-as-a-rock" rugby player... than that is Don. Don was always there to give me a hug when I needed it. I don't know what I would have done without him.
Jolene-- So much more than just Simon's girlfriend! As someone who usually chooses to hang out with guys, it was always nice to have a dependable girl around!
Ali-- Always around to help me with Xhosa when I needed it!!!
Nyoko, Thapz, Gubevu, Ken, Lowena, Chenai, Moses, Jon, Lindizwe... and all the other SOLmates who helped us grow acustom to the area!
AND for the countless other wonderful people I met... I love you guys

SO....
Basically, this semester was full of irreplaceable experiences. I can honestly say that it influenced me so much, and that I would not be the person I was today if I had not made the decision to study in South Africa. I fell in love with the culture, the people I encountered, the natural beauty of Cape Town, the wildlife, University of Cape Town.

This coming semester, I will be doing an internship in Washington DC. The details are still a little up in the air, but I am pretty sure that I will be working with an NGO or non-profit, hopefully related to the HIV/AIDs epidemic in Africa. I will be taking a class at the Washington Center for Internships and Academic Seminars. I don't know exactly what the semester will bring, but I will keep you guys up to date every step of the way!


Nguban' othe suhlal' ezulwini nangona usemhlabeni
Nguwe wedwa ozibambezelayo, ubomi ngobakho
Selifikile ixesha lokusenza isigqibo sokuphila
Ub' ubiziwe yiAfrika, it's the same song we all sing


(Who said you can’t enjoy Heaven if you’re on earth
You are the only one holding yourself back
This life is yours and the time has come to make a decision to live
If you’ve been called by Africa, it's the same song we all sing)


by Freshlyground

Sarah